TIPS:

1. If you already do not know, when practicing use fetch graph and then view graph; this way you can see the change without going out of the track ie:you don't have to save hot lap to view the graph.
2. always zoom in the graph in horizontal mode (X32) and click map. this way you can check all parameters very closely.
3. Don't forget to save setup as often as possible (with different names). And when saving hotlaps use same names according to the same setup ; this way you will eventually see the correlation.
4. I can say that i'm using alot of graph/setup change to increase my lap time.
5. You'll find out, that the race and qualifying setup are different because of the heavier fuel load.

NB: if you download any SETUP file or HOTLAP from any WWW site, for a specific track,you will find that most setupswon't fit your driving. I have found that every persons as different way to drive, and most importantly every PC & STEERING device are different, so from my personal experience it never really fits my driving. Altough you can actually find some valuable information from these files (how to take corners,gear,setups).

How to know when oversteer, understeer and wheel locking manifest themselves in the logged data?

First look at WHEELSPIN.

Now for wheel lock, it's easy, you'll see a suddon (sharp) decrease of speed (normally front tires (eg:yellow & green line)). If the reverse i guess you made nice spin.

For front lock, you'll have to change FRONT/BACK brake ratio until you find it satisfying. I have found that it's almost impossible to prevent any wheel lock, just by playing with the RATIO, you'll have to change your braking style, eg: just before it's locks, try to lift the brake before you finish your brake entry. What i do here is brake full power, downshift, and then "modulate" braking for the last 10% braking distance before entering a corner (this is a typical corner). By the way, you see how you brake with the GRAPH again.

Now for oversteer/understeer on the GRAPH, it's the same principle as brake lock (in terms of suddon "spike" of speed change). If you have a gentle under/oversteer it might be impossible to detect on the GRAPH.

Extensive view on dampers setups

I will try to demistify a little bit DAMPERS adjusment for GP2. I'm not here to say that i totally know everything about all aspect on DAMPERS setup, but i will give you my own interpretation of how it affects handling, and most importantly how to improve handling in qualifying session and raceday event.

How many time you've been to the limit entering or exiting a corner (either low or high speed) and after hitting the cerbstones (in french it's called "vibreur") all of the suddon your car overreact and goes out of control and after few 360's your in the wall, or sand trap ???

So your reaction will be, i will adjust my wings,springs or heights to prevent this situation and make the car less responsive : WRONG!

You probably use too much BUMP/REBOUND DAMPERS either FRONT or/and REAR.

How do we adjust these dampers to prevent this situation ??? Let's review what the dampers are made for.

Description of DAMPERS unit:
The BUMB and REBOUND DAMPERS is construct as single damper unit for each wheel. FAST DAMPER and SLOW DAMPER are in simplicity two different push-rod system in one single cylinder. Modern dampers allow certain degrees of adjustability to change the characteristics of the damper in both of these motions, at high and low speeds. BUMP DAMPER:
As it says, the role of bump dampers is used to keep the tires from overreacting over a bump/cerbstone and keeping the wheel on the track which translate in more grip.

1. HIGH SPEED bump damper control of the suspension travel at high upward shaft. This is useful when attempting to adjust the suspension for going over bumpy tracks (including curbs). The high speed characteristics change the way the wheels move in relation to the CAR chassis (that is how they transfer the forces of the bumbs to the car).
2. The LOW SPEED characteristics of the dampers control the way the car moves in relation to the wheels. By this it means that the lower shaft speeds occur when the car is braking, accelerating or cornering.

In the process of hitting a bump,the tires will naturaly go off the ground, BUMP DAMPER if adjusted properly will prevent this situation. We can view this as the wheel motion is moving UP.

REBOUND DAMPER:
This is working in opposite direction (moving DOWN), and in conjuncture with the bump dampers, it's going to put back the wheel on the track, it is the primary purpose of REBOUND motion.

1. The HIGH SPEED motion of the damper (high downward shaft) change the way how the wheels move in relation to the CAR chassis.
2. By changing the LOW SPEED settings on the damper, you can control how quickly the weight is transferred from one side (or end) of the car to the other.

While you're in a corner (ex:left turn), let's view this as the outside wheel (right) will work mainly in a UPWARD direction (because of car roll), and the BUMP DAMPERS will take effect. At the same time the inside wheel (left) will work in DOWNWARD direction, the REBOUND DAMPER will take effect. The DOMINANT force (GRIP) is achieved by the REBOUND DAMPERS, eg: the inside wheel. During the phases of transfered weight to either the FRONT (braking), the REAR(accelerating), to the RIGHT (left-hand corners) or to the LEFT (right-hand corners).

Got the picture? We have to understand that if it looks simple at first sight, actually both DAMPERS will work in conjuncture on the same wheel, but the effects will be more pronounce on a given wheel depending if this wheel is INSIDE(UP) or OUTSIDE(DOWN).

PRIMARY PURPOSE:
When entering a right hand corner, the weight is initially transferred onto the front wheels, and then especially onto the left-hand front wheel as the driver begins to turn into the corner (still on the brakes naturally). As the cornering force builds up, and the driver eases off the brake and begins to gently apply the throttle (known as "balancing" the car), the force is fairly even front to rear, but far greater on the left wheels than on the right. As the driver begins to accelerate out of the corner, more weight is transfered to the back, particularly the left rear, until the cornering phase is completed and the driver is accelerating in a straight line.

The balance of the car , will be affect by the SLOW DAMPERS (rapid change of direction: S chicane and when entering/exiting a corner). If you find your car overeacting when you execute a rapid transition of direction,you should lower the REBOUND DAMPER setting and/or increase BUMP DAMPER. On the contrary, if you find your car "Slugish", then compensate by increasing the REBOUND DAMPER and/or decrease BUMP DAMPER.

Thougths & experiments concerning anti-roll bar adjustment vs spring rate

In the quest to achieve a good car balance in the field of MECHANICAL GRIP (slow to mid-slow to medium speed corners, chicane,hairpin) in presence of bump or not. I've found some new tricks that could lead to a easier handling car and of course that's meaning going faster. We'll take for example one of the section in Imola ; ACQUE MINERALE chicane (if you're like me, you'll find this section of the track frustrating).

Here it seems, here are numerous way to cure that bad tendency of heavy oversteer (often spin off) while negociating that portion of the track, with all those change of direction, bumps and worst off-camber road. Well the first thought is reducing the REAR anti-roll bar (ARB) and/or adding the FRONT anti-roll bar (ARB) load. First we all know in principle by adding more ARB in front there will be more understeer. That's true BUT at the same time you create a more RESPONSIVE FRONT END, and because of this situation you will end-up with a more ill-handling due to OVEREACTION from chassis. Another way to reduce oversteer is a reduction of REAR ARB, again in principle it's true, NOW you create a SLUGGISH rear-end that might lead to not enough respond and leading to a car that will slide again because of too much chassis rollout from the rear-end. Although the second option is a better choice (less REAR ARB) than the first option,it's not the perfect solution.

ANTI-ROLL BAR are mostly effective on MEDIUM speed corners, so another way to cure OVERSTEER on bumpy chicanes, is reducing the amount of REAR SPRING LOAD, but you might face another dilemna, your in a situation where at all the other portion of the track, you will also experience UNDERSTEER, so WHAT TO DO?

Here's what i've found (by the way same problem appears at Estoril turn 9-10 : that up-hill chicanes, i call this an invert cork-screw)

Just for a moment we'll change our aproach, again let's go with Imola, keep the FRONT SPRING LOAD fairly high (around 1300 lbs/sq in), reduce the REAR SPRING LOAD (down to 700-800 lbs/sq in). At this point this car will UNDERSTEER everywhere else on the track. NOW it's time to compensate, REDUCE the FRONT ARB down to 1500 lbs/sq in and definitly ADD much in the REAR ARB up to 200 lbs/sq in. I'll try to explain why these changes and why it works well, REMEMBER CAR BALANCE is a key word. (few months ago i would think it's crazy!)

1. Some tracks don't need HIGH FRONT ARB ; if there's no high speed chicanes
2. Always try first to adjust ARB in function of LONG FAST SWEEPING CORNERS
3. Also adjust SPRING RATE to prevent UNDER/OVERSTEER in slow corners, don't forget about tires wear for raceday
4. If you decide to go for mid to mid-high FRONT SPRING load and low to mid-low REAR SPRING load compensate with ARB
5. Other tracks needs higher FRONT ARB ; usefull for high speed chicanes (SPA,SUZUKA,MONZA), so the trade-off is to raise REAR SPRING LOAD to prevent excessive understeer
6. Reduction of REAR ARB is usefull where chassis roll-out is not a big concern, and prevents rear tires wear
7. Always try to use as much SPRING LOAD as possible up to a point where lap time are not increasing and most important take attention to tire wear (only practice with a good fuel load will tell if asphalt is abrasive or not)